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Who Owns Southern Food

In late March, Eater published a Hillary Dixler essay, “How Gullah Cuisine Has Transformed Charleston Dining.” The title was clickbait. The real provocation came with the subtitle: “Exploring the line between shared history and appropriation.” The real conversation began when the white Charleston cognoscenti responded in a voice that was often insular and offended and un attering, challeng- ing Dixler’s command of the subject…

Article Information


  • Charleston, SC
  • New Orleans, LA


  • Oxford American | Jun 16
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